Automatic Pocket Setter and Sewing Machine Automation

A pocket setting cycle runs like this: the operator places the trouser panel on the table and the pocket fabric on the mould, then presses the pedal. The folding valves (front, side and corner folders) turn the pocket edges around the mould; the inner and outer mould clamp the pocket and carry it to the stitch position on the panel, and vacuum and the presser foot hold the fabric. The order and timing of the folds decide how clean the pocket comes out; each valve waits for the previous step to be confirmed by a sensor.

While sewing, the mould holding the fabric or the sewing head follows the stitch path with X and Y servo axes. The path comes from the pocket model's template: straight edges, corner turns, bartacks at the pocket mouth and decorative patterns. The sewing machine's main shaft (the needle) and the X-Y motion must be synchronised: while the needle is in the fabric the axes stop or slow right down, and while it is up they move to the next penetration point. So the axis motion is coupled to the main shaft angle with an electronic gear or cam, and the stitch length stays constant whatever the speed.

When the seam is finished the thread trimmer and needle air run, the mould opens and the stacker picks the panel, drops it on the pile and presses it. The machine watches for thread breaks, fabric run-out, pressure loss and safety sensors all the time; when the thread breaks, the position on the stitch path is saved and after the operator rethreads, sewing continues from the same point. Pocket models, sizes and stitch patterns are stored as recipes and model changes are made on the screen.

In the ONX architecture the machine is controlled by CODESYS running on a compact industrial PC (Nexcom NISE series). The X and Y stitch axes are driven by EtherCAT servo drives (Estun ED3L) and auxiliary axes by stepper drives; folding, mould, vacuum, thread trimming and stacking valves and the sensors connect to Crevis EtherCAT I/O modules. The stitch path and synchronised motion are calculated in the same EtherCAT cycle.

The operator interface is an application on a separate panel PC that connects to CODESYS over the network: pocket models, stitch templates, counters and alarm history are managed there. Remote desktop access is available for service, and the control PC's disk image is protected so software can be updated safely in the field.

Since 2021 ONX Control has done the control of back pocket, coin pocket, bellows pocket, kangaroo pocket, bathrobe pocket, belt and J-stitch machines for a sewing automation machine builder. Besides garment workshops in Türkiye, the machines were installed in Pakistan in 2026.

On these machines control runs on CODESYS on a compact industrial PC, with Estun ED3L EtherCAT servo drives on the X-Y stitch axes and Crevis I/O modules for folding and stacking; the operator interface runs on a panel PC. The videos below show field footage of these machines.

A typical picture on older pocket setters: a discontinued control board, stitch templates only the machine builder can change, seams that drift because stepper motors miss steps, and a cycle that has to restart from the beginning when the thread breaks. In a retrofit the moulds and mechanics are kept; the X-Y axes move to EtherCAT servos, control moves to CODESYS and templates become editable on the operator screen.